The designers who don't work to fulfil a criteria or a seasons trend are the ones who end up making the trends. Fashion designers are working seasons in advance so by the time things are hitting that thermometer scale ordering the public to wear pastel denim, designers will already be working on their collection of distressed leather.
Rodarte for instance is a fashion designing sister-duo, who's whimsical creations are personal. Their last season was based on their childhood in Santa Cruz, South California and had a romantic nostalgic atmosphere to it. Beaded angel wings flew across a backless LBD and thorned rose buds bloomed on blood red gowns. These romantic ideas were symbolic of their childhood but also resonated with the rest of us and stroke a chord with a fashion crowd who probably didn't grow up in Santa Cruz but have some other far off fond connection to these symbols.
Naturally, a designer can't be too personal as they aren't just designing for themselves but its a personal approach to their designs that make a designer's work of interest. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are the newly-appointed creative directors of Kenzo, who have reignited the Japanese roots and jungle spirit of the fashion house. Kenzo began with Kenzo Takada's Parisian boutique 'Jungle Jap'; however, Lim and Leon aren't trying to resurrect Kenzo's foundation. Instead, they are bringing fresh, revolutionary ground to Kenzo's origins and mixing their own Californian aesthetic with Kenzo Takada's original idea. Lim and Leon's love for their home state, California's music, nature and art is realized in the fresh, cool summer colours of the Kenzo fall collection. Wet-style fabrics evoke the surfer spirit of West Coast America; yet, the designs retain a completely Kenzo approach. Printed Japanese denim with flying tigers and the collection's play on structure and geometry with their cross-draped jackets, skirts and dresses are reminiscent of Ancient East Asian architecture and pattern.
|Kenzo F/W 13|
It's these innovative designers like Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, who work on their personal aesthetic alongside external influences that makes for real talent. As for trends, they don't exist. What's trending and what isn't is always present depending on what designer you are looking at. It's the message a designer is trying to relay that somehow gets picked up by the 'trend-mometer' and its not what rules the fashion world. It's the excitement for new revolutionary and experimental thinking from designers, which makes for a successful industry. In that sense, lets see what the coming fashion weeks have to offer...